There is a reason our guest say “It’s so peaceful here.”
Sound control was of a top priority when designing and building the lodge. The goal was to make each room as quiet as possible. There are different ways sounds can be transmitted, mainly through the air and through objects.
In order to keep the sound from transmitting from room to room we did the following.
Between each room there are two walls. The first wall was raised and 5/8" drywall attached, taped and sound caulked around all edges and joints. We were careful that no plumbing or wiring penetrated that layer of drywall. The second wall was then raised, leaving a two inch space between walls. Both walls were fully insulated, and sound caulking pads were applied to the electrical boxes. Then drywall was applied, taped and all edges were sound caulked, making a total of eight inches of insulation and three layers of 5/8" drywall. There are no TVs on any party walls.
Between the upper and lower floors we also applied sound controls. The floor/ceiling joists and plywood were increased by one size in order to stiffen the floor. Also one and one half inches of concrete (not light weight) was poured on top. The stiffer and denser the floor the less sounds transmitted. R-30 insulation was put between the joist in order to absorb sound. R-C channel (a Z-shaped metal) was attached to the bottom of the joist and the ceiling drywall was screwed to that. This in effect lets the drywall float as it is not attached directly to the joist. The R-C is designed to act as an isolation spring. The drywall edges were sound caulked and taped. We used a heavy carpet-pad and carpet to isolate and absorb sound even more.
Between the upper floors and the roof garden we did the same treatment as between floors, except we added a 3/8" mat before pouring the concrete.
On the outside walls 5/8" drywall was applied prior to the siding in order to make the walls more dense. This helps block sound transmission. The walls are all fully insulated and sound caulked.
The windows are dual paned glazed - this blocks four times the sound of a single pane window. Of course if the windows are open the sound comes right in, including the ocean breeze and the sound of waves.
The doors are solid and weather proofed, which helps keep out sound. However it does make the doors harder to open and close -- Sorry! When unlocking the door pull the handle as if to close it even tighter while turning the key. We also laid out the rooms so that the entry doors are not next to each other where possible.
All the plumbing pipes were carefully insulated. The soil lines are cast iron, as it is more dense and transmits less sound than ABS plastic pipe. The closet bends (below each toilet) were wrapped with insulation then encased in concrete. The water pipes were over sized and put in a full loop in order to keep the velocity travel distance of the water down. All piping is isolated to the bathrooms. All hot and cold copper pipes were insulated. All valves have an air cushion in the wall. It is a 3/4" pipe about 12" long that is an air chamber. The air compresses (water does not) this prevents the hammer sound that is made when a valve is closed rapidly. Even with all this effort some muffled sound may still be heard, Sorry!
The AC units were the quietest on the market at the time we built. They are a split system, which means only the fan unit is in the room. The compressors are on the roof or ground (hopefully not heard in the room).
We made our best effort to make you stay as quite and enjoyable as possible. Please Enjoy!
I studied sound transmission and had over 30 years of construction experience (at the time the lodge was built). What made me interested in the sound control, was an incident that happen years ago, I was still in my 20s and trying very hard to design and build with the best quality and craftsmanship. I had designed and built a duplex for a friend in Leucadia. After it was finished we had just sold our house and so we rented one side of the duplex. I had built it per code which required the party wall have staggered studs. 2 x 6 top and bottom plates were used with the 2 x 4 studs stagged so the drywall on each side was not attached to the same stud. It was a very nice place and we were lucky to live there. It had a few down sides. After a few weeks living there the elderly couple next door got into a verbal fight. We heard her say, well if you have your knife out go ahead and use it. We didn’t know whether to call the police or pretend we didn’t here it. In just a short time we could them both snoring. They may have had too much to drink. After that I never designed or built another staggered stud party wall, even if met code. Therefore the two separate walls, extra insulation, drywall and two inch space. We used to leave a one inch space, but after adding the extra sheet of drywall found it only left a small space and the studs could warp and touch.
In that same duplex when someone would knock on our door or the neighbors door we could not tell which door had visitors. Now I design where doors are at a distance where possible.
The unit had two bathrooms one upstairs and one downstairs. Our guest would use the one upstairs thinking it more private. Wrong! From the living room and kitchen you could hear them use the toilet and when it was flushed you could here the water rush down the kitchen soffit and the wall. After that, all buildings I designed and or built sound was a huge consideration. I now make sure the closet bend is either cast-iron or ABS wrapped with insulation and at least three inches of concrete or plaster of Paris poured around that. ABS wrapped and encased, recommended. At that time (in the 1960s) insulation was not required, by code, in the exterior walls or ceilings. I apologize to the people living in the duplex. May you always have quite neighbors and discreet guest!
I hope you enjoy your stay at The “Cardiff by-the-Sea Lodge”
www.Cardifflodge.com
- James Statser Sr.
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